Editor’s note: We are pleased to feature this year-long series highlighting the most unique seasonal offerings brewed up by the wizards at Crafty Bastard and available at the business’s original and/or West Knox locations. Articles are provided by Crafty’s Aaron McClain and (lightly) edited by BLANK. Cheers!
by Aaron McClain
In late October about a decade ago, a friend and I were walking through Old Gray Cemetery just north of Downtown Knoxville when I spotted an unusual, squishy-looking orange fruit in my path on the ground. I picked up this perplexing specimen of our native flora and began an examination.
The aroma was captivating, almost as if someone had made a pumpkin pie but with apricot instead. The texture reminded me of firm jelly and was encased by a waxy yet delicate skin. Years previously, I had been advised by a fellow forager of local produce that no unfamiliar fruit found in this area was ever going to kill me, that I should just try a bite and spit it out if it tastes astringent or bitter, as poisonous things taste bad for a reason, and our bodies have evolved to detect them and warn us via our palates.
Against the admonitions of my strolling companion, I took a bite. The aroma was only a prelude for the experience that would ensue. Waves upon waves of peach, apricot, cinnamon and vanilla were encompassed by a rich, custardy texture that made for a delectable dessert in and of itself. Another bite left me with one unassailable conclusion: I must use these little pieces of paradise in a beer!
My problem, however, was twofold:
1. American persimmons*, like pawpaws, are not commercially feasible. They are not palatable until they fall from the tree. They are very astringent and bitter until then and have a very short shelf life after falling.
2. There were only a handful of persimmons on the ground around me; where was I to get enough to make a beer?
Enter Don Kilgore, who was – and still is – a good friend, regular customer and Scotch whisky-drinking cohort of mine. One autumn, he was sitting at the bar and asked, “Aaron, would you have a use for persimmons?” My ears immediately perked up when he said that he had a huge tree which dropped more fruit on his back porch than he ever could possibly use. We agreed to barter for his bounty, and the persimmons he has brought in since that conversation are unquestionably the plumpest and most delicious I have ever encountered.
We have created numerous beers with Don’s beauties in the intervening years. They have made a very tasty saision, kolsch and barrel aged sour. All these beers were excellent, but the unique thing about these late-harvest persimmons is they are most at home in the darkness of a porter. The custardy texture and notes of baking spice and stone fruit accentuate our porter in a more complex yet natural and quaffable way than any other fruit I have tried.
Starting Friday, Nov. 5, ** and as long as supplies last, we will be pouring Persimmon Porter at both taprooms (downtown at 6 Emory Place and our new West Knox location at 9937 Kingston Pike). We hope you’ll take a moment this month to let this unforgettable East Tennessee creation cross your path.
* Any persimmons you have seen in a grocery store are Asian persimmons, generally of the fuyu variety. And while they are tasty, they do not have the unique, almost otherworldly flavor and texture that American persimmons do.
** To meet and view the work of artist Alice Holleman, who painted the local foraging-inspired mural featured in BLANK Newspaper’s XIII issue, come to Crafty West on Friday, Nov. 5.
